Walking into the Roosevelt had a transformative effect: the sleek sophistication immediately transporting me to the 1920s. Convinced of my newly-found glamour, I sashayed over to join my waiting gentleman at a secluded corner table. Cocktails were, of course, in order. I began with a ladylike Lady Lavender ($19) — lavender and coconut perfectly balancing the gin in a deliciously sweet and incredibly dangerous combination. The Roosevelt Old Fashioned #1 ($21) for my gentleman brought over the mobile cocktail trolley and the excitement of display mixology.

As the cocktails eased us out of business talk and into the early evening, a little nourishment was required to accompany our second round. A bowl of olives ($8) were infused with lavender and finished with a citrus gel, once again displaying a perfect balance of flavours, and the gruyere soufflés ($8) were light, gooey and stood up to the cocktails.

Buoyed by the glow of the first round, we turned our attention to the more manly Cocktails. My Ricks Martini ($22) packed a punch, with the gin rounded out by the secret ingredients which added a sweet apricot flavour. Perhaps revealing more about himself than he intended, my companion opts for the Mr Sin ($19), delivered in a hand gun and served over a huge block of ice. The cocktail is deemed exceptional, with the smooth combination of white port and whisky.

As I step back onto Orwell Street, my glamourous illusion is shattered as, instead of my driver waiting to whisk me off home I find my bearings and head for the bus stop. Whilst the Roosevelt may be best enjoyed with an expense account, friendly service and a good dose of theatre make for a memorable and exciting evening. Now to invent a ‘special occasion’ to try their cocktail degustation…

Gangster score: Capone
The Roosevelt
32 Orwell Street, Potts Point, 2011
5pm-Midnight, Monday to Sunday
Cocktail Degustation Wednesday to Saturday, 7:30pm