I’d pretty much decided to write this review with the conclusion that the food is so bad, it’s brilliant. With expansive tartan, deep fried almost everything, and Irn Bru to wash it all down, the Abercrombie pub certainly lives up, or down, to the artery-clogging expectations of Scottish food.

On reflection, however, that conclusion is unfair. Yes, the deep fried pizza is, well, just that: slightly oily, battered carbohydrate, and eating it is surely taking minutes off your life (but what a life, if you’re spending it in the Abercrombie). The menu is padded out with cheap favourites (tacos, nachos, hot dogs and fried chicken), done well enough to soak up an evening’s drinking, but not worth a special culinary visit.

In amongst all of this there are a couple of gems. The deep fried mac n cheese balls are creamy, cheesy and served with a sharp aioli, hot chips are topped with gherkins and come with a side of meaty gravy, and the pulled pork burger with asian slaw is really delicious.

Concentrating on the food, however, really misses the point. The Abercrombie takes itself far from seriously, cranking out cocktails served in bags with glow sticks and fruity specials topped with Passion Pop. Granted, the food’s not going to be winning any awards, but who really cares when there’s Irn Bru, deep fried pizza, and the promise of a visit to the organic famers’ market to atone the next morning.

The Abercrombie
100 Broadway (corner of Abercrombie Street), 2007
Open 7 days for lunch, dinner and drinks